GET YOU SOME VINING PERIWINKLE, IT IS VERY HARDY, TAKES SUN OR SHADEY AREAS GREAT AND SPREADS LIKE WILD FIRE AND IT VERY LOW MAINTANCE…IT COMES IN PLAIN GREEN OR VARIGATED AND HAS A PURPLE FLOWER THAT BLOOMS AND WILL WINTER OVER, NEVER HAS TO BE TAKEN UP AND COMES BACK IN THE SPRING..MINE IS ALREADY GOING NUTS, I LIVE IN OKLAHOMA
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"Since grass isn’t growing there, does that mean nothing else will?"

Not necessarily.

Did the previous owners have pets or children? If so, the soil may be compacted from running or playing. That happens a lot in that sort of situation. Grass is always happier in the sun and in the shade, it sometimes cannot handle the traffic.

Try pushing a shovel into the ground with normal stepping pressure. If you have a lot of trouble getting the shovel to bite, your soil is probably compacted and you will need to aeriate it somehow. This can either be done by renting a soil aerator or having a lawn service do that, or getting a hold of a rototiller.

You should also consider adding organic matter to the soil. You can buy compost or peat moss and work that into the soil. Just remember that you don’t have to garden with the soil you have. You can add and amend the soil, which will help you chances a lot.

Hostas are a good choice and they pair well with ferns and epimediums. You might also look into some of the native woodland plants from your area to add in as well.
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Locust will tolerate soils that are to poor, compact or dry and hot for any other tree. The roots of the tree are probably taking all the moisture, out competing any other plants. Your soil should be tested.

You can do a visual survey by digging a small hole. First look at the hole and take some soil in hand. Check your soil’s texture by picking up a handful and squeeze gently: If it feels sticky and stays in a tight mass, your soil is likely too high in clay. If it feels harsh or gritty and won’t hold any shape or crumbles it is likely too high in sand. If it feels smooth or floury and won’t hold any shape, it’s likely too high in silt. If it molds into your hand yet crumbles apart when squeezed, it has the perfect texture. It is loam.
If it formed a sticky ball try to squeeze it upward to form a ribbon. Measure the length of the ribbon. Now wet the soil in your palm til muddy. Rub the soil against your palm with your other fingertips. Is it smooth, gritty or both?

1 inch gritty ribbon is sandy loam
1 inch smooth ribbon is silty loam
1 inch both is loam

1-2 inch gritty ribbon is sandy clay loam
1-2 inch smooth ribbon is silty clay loam
1-2 inch both is clay loam

GT 2 inch gritty ribbon is sandy clay
GT 2 inch smooth ribbon is silty clay
GT 2 inch both is clay

Black color indicates high organic matter; gray indicates medium organic matter. Red, tan or blue color indicates little organic matter and high clay. Blue color indicates that there is no oxygen in the clay. Therefore, no roots will grow in blue clay. Normally, the organic matter is mainly in the topsoil. Forest soils have a one to four inch thick layer of dark organic matter on top of mineral soil.

Amendments will depend on the soil type and organic content.
Because of the large trees you may need to water more than 1 inch per week to maintain a healthy grass under the trees.

Black locust (Robinea pseudoacacia) has a shallow, aggressive root system spreading by producing root suckers. The tree leafs out late and is early to shed its foliage again. This makes it a great companion to all bulbs like scilla, tulips, narcissus, iris, and anemonies.
Locust can be glorious in spring when the sweet scent of the flowers drifts out accompanying the heavy buzz of bees high in the tree. My trees attract four species of woodpecker including a family of pileated woodpeckers. The locust are a great backdrop for my rose garden. I grow hostas, pulmonaria, azalea, peonies, lilies, fuschia, dahlias, and roses amidst hundreds of spring bulbs. The crocus just finished and the anemonies are up with the pulmonaria and narcissus. Nothing I have tried had trouble due to allopathy from the trees only competition for the available water.
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http://www.robinie.dk/pseudoacacia.php

I would say work the soil and try there could be a lot of reason’s that there is nothing growing there but if I were you I would try-there are alot of flowers that do very well in the shade like impatience,hosta,primrose,astillbe,bleeding heart,any kind of ferns,viola’s,corral bells,begonia’s,vinca and one of my favorite dead nettle.Good luck!
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I would plant impatients because it will add color this is an annual so you would have to plant it every year. On the edge of each side I would plant perreniels for shade like the painted fern, and different colors of hosta, and you could plant the Lenten rose that blooms first thing in the spring (Zones 4-9) for early color. You can also plant Bleeding heart and primrose that will bloom from spring to summer and come back every year. You also need to amend your soil add topsoil, compost and peat moss.
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Your Hostas will grow there
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Yuna,

I suspect the reason for the ‘grassless’ border is shade and lack of water. The areas next to the house might be ‘protected’ from rain by an overhang or eaves. Check the area out after a light rainfall, is it moist? or dry… I think that’s your culprit. If you find that is the problem, try using a product called ‘Soil Moist’, that may help lessen the problem. Be sure to work alot of organic material into the soil as well, as that will help with water retention.

As for plant options… you do have many.
Beside Hostas, look at Lamium, Bleeding Heart (Dicentra), Ferns of every kind (though they require moisture), Columbine (Aquilegia) and Astilbe. Those are all perennials that should come back for you year after year (check your USDA hardiness zone to be sure). As for flowering shrubs, consider Japanese Rose (Kerria japonica), Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) as well as many Azalea’s or Rhododendrons.

I hope that this helps
Good luck-
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I am a professional horticulturist

hosta are very good and they are hardy too
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