How long should I wait until I start raking leaves off my lawn after I just planted fresh grass seed? I planted the seed about a week ago, but there are a lot of tress in my yard, so its starting to cover the lawn…. When would it be OK to start raking them off? I also have a blower, but I assume it would not be good to use that just yet because I dont want to blow the seeds off/away. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
-John
Won’t leaves block sunlight though from hitting the seeds/ground?

A thin layer of leaves over your newly planted grass seed is a plus. It will keep heat and moisture in the seeds for sprouting purposes. In fall leaves are put over some of the garden projects like a mulch to help keep warmth in the roots. Then the leaves are removed in the spring and put into the compose pile.

We have a big fish pond in our patio with a palm growing through the side of it. The ants are under the palm. It’s to big to take out. The ants are taking over my patio. My 2yr old can’t be out there for to long cause he gets bites all over him! I need an organic soultion so it won’t harm my boy, the fish or the plam.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can put around your fish pond (and around the anthills if you know where they are) a mixture of 50 percent borax (sold in laundry aisle of supermarkets) and 50 percent confectioner’s sugar and place near anthill. The ants are attracted to the sugar and carry the fatal borax/sugar combination back to the nest to feed the queen and other ants. Soon all ants will be dead. Do not put this mixture where children and pets can ingest it. To get rid of anthills, pour 3 gallons of boiling water down them. This is best when done when the ants are active and at the surface. Do not do it near flowers or they will die.

I have a large bush that is too hard to cut with a handsaw. I don’t want anything too big or dangerous-just a nice easy to use electric saw. Can anyone recommend something?

If it’s a one off job, why don’t you just hire one

I have some Emerald Arborvitae (Thuja Occidentalis) trees that I just bought and haven’t yet planted. I want them to grow as quickly as possible.

Does anyone know if Miracle Grow works for trees, especially this type of tree, or if not, is there anything to do/use that would make this type of tree grow faster?

A word of caution. The first year plants struggle to get established, the second year may see a spurt of growth, and the third year they leap. You can not use a whole lot of fertilizer the first year or the second. You can use some the third. Next make sure that the surrounding area is free of grass for a couple of feet diameter so that the grass will not suck up the nutrients(saw this on a gardening show where the trees did not grow well with grass on their root structure). And last make sure your pH is good for plant growth, plants can not absorb nutrients if the pH is off. Miracle grow makes two kinds of fertilizer; regular and acid loving. Make sure you use the right one.

We just moved into our new house in October. The previous owners didn’t like the grass in the back yard, so they cut the lawn out and reseeded. There are two large locust trees in the backyard that provide a great deal of shade, which explains the thin grass growth. I am hoping to plant some hostas and various perrenials along the foundation of our house. There is one thing that worries me though. The ground bordering the back of the house is bare, and grass is present about 1 1/2 feet from the house. It’s like a grassless border. Since grass isn’t growing there, does that mean nothing else will?

Locust will tolerate soils that are to poor, compact or dry and hot for any other tree. The roots of the tree are probably taking all the moisture, out competing any other plants. Your soil should be tested.

You can do a visual survey by digging a small hole. First look at the hole and take some soil in hand. Check your soil’s texture by picking up a handful and squeeze gently: If it feels sticky and stays in a tight mass, your soil is likely too high in clay. If it feels harsh or gritty and won’t hold any shape or crumbles it is likely too high in sand. If it feels smooth or floury and won’t hold any shape, it’s likely too high in silt. If it molds into your hand yet crumbles apart when squeezed, it has the perfect texture. It is loam.
If it formed a sticky ball try to squeeze it upward to form a ribbon. Measure the length of the ribbon. Now wet the soil in your palm til muddy. Rub the soil against your palm with your other fingertips. Is it smooth, gritty or both?

1 inch gritty ribbon is sandy loam
1 inch smooth ribbon is silty loam
1 inch both is loam

1-2 inch gritty ribbon is sandy clay loam
1-2 inch smooth ribbon is silty clay loam
1-2 inch both is clay loam

GT 2 inch gritty ribbon is sandy clay
GT 2 inch smooth ribbon is silty clay
GT 2 inch both is clay

Black color indicates high organic matter; gray indicates medium organic matter. Red, tan or blue color indicates little organic matter and high clay. Blue color indicates that there is no oxygen in the clay. Therefore, no roots will grow in blue clay. Normally, the organic matter is mainly in the topsoil. Forest soils have a one to four inch thick layer of dark organic matter on top of mineral soil.

Amendments will depend on the soil type and organic content.
Because of the large trees you may need to water more than 1 inch per week to maintain a healthy grass under the trees.

Black locust (Robinea pseudoacacia) has a shallow, aggressive root system spreading by producing root suckers. The tree leafs out late and is early to shed its foliage again. This makes it a great companion to all bulbs like scilla, tulips, narcissus, iris, and anemonies.
Locust can be glorious in spring when the sweet scent of the flowers drifts out accompanying the heavy buzz of bees high in the tree. My trees attract four species of woodpecker including a family of pileated woodpeckers. The locust are a great backdrop for my rose garden. I grow hostas, pulmonaria, azalea, peonies, lilies, fuschia, dahlias, and roses amidst hundreds of spring bulbs. The crocus just finished and the anemonies are up with the pulmonaria and narcissus. Nothing I have tried had trouble due to allopathy from the trees only competition for the available water.

My yard is of a sandy nature. Is there a grass seed for such soil and can it be planted in the early fall?

YOU CAN PLANT GRASS SEED ANY TIME OF THE YEAR UNLESS IT’S FROZEN OUT, OBVIOUSLY. THE SAME GOES FOR SOD. I LIVE IN A SIMILAR AREA. I WOULD PERSONALLY USE REGULAR GRASS SEED RATHER THAN RYE. USE WHAT WILL DO BEST IN SHADE OR SUN DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU HAVE. MOST ALL GRASS SEED WILL GROW IN ABOUT ANYTHING, THERE IS NO NEED FOR ALL THAT FANCY SOIL STUFF. THAT’S USUALLY A LOT OF RHETORIC FROM PEOPLE WHO HAVE NEVER DONE IT BEFORE AND HAVE ONLY READ THAT. YOU’LL JUST WANT TO WATER IT WELL AND IT WILL BE FINE. NEXT YEAR YOU WILL WANT TO START A REGULAR FERTILIZING SCHEDULE, I DO THAT ABOUT 4 TIMES A YEAR WITH WEED AND FEED AND WATER WELL. HAVE FUN!

I want to ensure that the privet hedge I grow is thick all the way down to the ground. I have seen some good privet hedges which are entirely thick and square, but also many that have gaps and exposed trunk at the bottom… I do not want this. Also, i have heard that privet grows well from cuttings… is this true, and how should I do about this? Or should I buy plants from a nursery? If I bought plants, how could I ensure that there would be no gaps at the bottom?

The BBC Has a very good gardening website with a question and answers message board. I feel sure you will get the answers your looking for without fail
All this providing your in the UK of course although perhaps this shouldnt make a differance

it’s one of those pre-molded black plastic fish ponds that you can buy at Home Depot and it’s developed a leak somewhere. So I need to empty it, clean it it, dry it, repair the crack or leak, and then let that set and dry, then refill it and put the fish back in. I don’t want to use something that would be toxic to the fish.

BONDO

I live in Massachusetts. I’m also interested in vines or small bushes with bright leaves. Also when should I plant them?

I love these ‘what are your favorite’ type questions, because you’ll get so many answers. You were also good enough to give us your location… so you should get some good responses. As I always include, however, take the list to your local independent garden center for a final going over. Some of your plants might not be hardy where you are, or otherwise difficult if not impossible to get locally.

Many people read the shade part, but not the SMALL in small shrubs… just FYI, becareful of some of the choices.

As for shady perennials, what can I say, Hosta, Astilbe, Lamium, lungwart (Pulmonaria), Ligularia, Bruneria (there are some dazzling variegated forms!), ferns of all kind, foxglove (Digitalis), monkshood (Aconitum), columbine (Aquilegia) and Japanese toad lily (Tricyrtis). I’m sure there are more perennials, but this will get you started.

As for shrubs… how small? But boxwood (Buxus), Japanese rose (Kerria) (There are some nice variegated forms), Dwarf Rhododendrons (Like Rampo or Purple Gem), Deutzia.
These may get you going in the right direction.

I’m in USDA hardiness zone 5, which is similar to where you live, so I’m thinking that everything here should be hardy there.

Good luck-
I hope that this helps

The bedding plants that I have planted in containers (large ones) have started turning yellow…I have not had this problem in years before. They are regularly watered and fertilized and are planted in adequate sun or shade. I live in Manitoba Canada. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Too much water? Too much fertilizer?

Hard to say without knowing what they are.